Days when it’s too chilly for the ocean are perfect for hiking

“It’s days like today when the breeze is a little too chilly for swimming that are the best for hiking in Okinawa” When we got to the rendezvous in the morning, our guide Mr. Miyagi welcomed us with his beaming smile. We had no idea there were so many hiking trails in Okinawa.

Today, we’re going to hike a historical trail that runs from Nakijin Village, located in northern Okinawa, to the Nakijin Castle Ruins on the top of a mountain. I’ve climbed a few mountains before, but this is my first one in Okinawa. To tell the truth, I never really thought I could enjoy hiking in Okinawa. While I’m still a little uneasy about what to expect, we start off. I’m excited to see the forest of Okinawa.

It’s just like Jurassic Park inside the forest

We’ve only walked a little way into the forest, but I’m amazed by how completely different it is from the image of Okinawa that I had up until now. Rays of strong sunlight shine down through narrow openings in the canopy of the dark green jungle so unique to the tropics. The sunbeams hit shiny leaves and flash back up. Although we’re inside the forest, I see large hermit crabs walking in the path, as well as colorful and incredible flowers and plants. It reminds me of the movie Jurassic Park.

I love the commentaries that our guide gives each time we find something new. “This is called a terrestrial hermit crab. It’s a protected species. This plant is shell ginger. Smell the leaves. Doesn’t it smell nice? On December 8 of the lunar calendar, we make and enjoy eating muchii (rice cakes) to drive away evil spirits. The rice cakes are wrapped in these leaves, so every Okinawan recalls eating rice cakes when they take a whiff of this aroma.”

Sometimes, our guide teases us, “This might be a new species!” Even though we know he is joking, we almost believe him. We hiked for a little over an hour, absorbing everything new that we see, hear and experience. Before we knew it, we arrived at the Nakijin Castle Ruins, our first destination. Even beginners or hikers with little children can enjoy trails like this.

Okinawa, island of the gods Island of prayers

Along the trail and at Nakijin Castle Ruins where we arrive, we passed several sanctums known as utaki where Okinawa’s noro or priestesses offer prayers. Okinawan culture, although slowly disappearing, still remains strong in this part of Okinawa. One of the hallmarks of hiking in Yanbaru is having the chance to walk along these trails and see such places.

Our guide said, “Okinawa is the island of gods and island of prayers.” These words left a lasting impression on me.

Even the stones used for castle walls are completely different from those found in southern Okinawa. When the island formed, strata were thrust up from the sea bottom in the northern part that are different those that rose up in the southern area. “Isn’t it nice that the mountains and sea are so close in Nakijin? Next, let’s hike down to the seashore and Imadomari hamlet.”

As we walked down the mountain, our guide showed us the nearby hamlet. The sea breeze cooled the sweat on our skin. The rows of Fukugi trees, which form a windbreak, and Imadomari hamlet with its rows of old family homes have also served as the setting for many movies. Hearing that, I seem to recall seeing this place in some movie or television drama.

As we walked down the mountain, our guide showed us the nearby hamlet. The sea breeze cooled the sweat on our skin. The rows of Fukugi trees, which form a windbreak, and Imadomari hamlet with its rows of old family homes have also served as the setting for many movies. Hearing that, I seem to recall seeing this place in some movie or television drama.

After walking all day and hearing so many stories, we enjoy the scenery of Imadomari hamlet we are walking through and the sea that we gazed down on from atop the mountain. The scenery that I used to think was just pretty and very Okinawan has suddenly come into full relief along with the profound history of the Ryukyus. It’s been an incredible experience.

Dinner and our lodging give us a taste of the Okinawan mood

After enjoying plenty of hiking and Okinawan culture, we head to Hibiscus Inn Nakijin, our lodging for the night.

This renovated traditional style house has a pleasant atmosphere with hibiscus and bougainvillea trees in the courtyard that our veranda gives us a commanding view of. I feel myself dozing off for a nap, enveloped by the cool breeze blowing off the sea.

I wake up just as the sun is going down, and we decide to go over to the izakaya next to the inn to try some Okinawan dishes and sake.

Today, we walked a lot, so we can afford to eat a lot. There is a tap in the restaurant that pours awamori, and the layout makes it so enjoyable that we might drink a little too much. Hey, why not?!

Warm people who value friendships

At the table next to us, some local patrons seem to be enjoying their sake. Curious, I ask and they tell me their gathering is a moai.

Moai is a system where all the participants pay a certain amount of money at each meeting and one receives the money that is collected. It’s a once-a-month gathering where everyone gathers to drink. When they have money, they save it, and when they need it, they can get it. One of the moai members tells us, “Okinawan people really value relationships with their friends and neighbors.”

They let us join their group halfway through. Okinawan people might be shy, but they are very warm and friendly. At first, not many people would talk with us. But, when our glasses were empty, someone would fill them up right away.

As we drank through the sake, we could feel the distance between us gradually dwindling. That’s Okinawan culture. Eventually, everyone loosened up and started talking more and more. They told us about Okinawan history, culture and many other things. In the end, even people from the surrounding tables joined in to form one big happy party. This is what you can see everyday in Okinawa.

You might be a little taken aback if you’re used to life in the city where people aren’t as friendly toward strangers. But, here, there is always a warm togetherness that you can’t find in the city. It will warm your heart. “Okay, next, let’s all go to karaoke!” everyone said as we were invited too! When I looked at my watch, I saw that I never realized it was past midnight. Nights in Okinawa are long and amiable.